Q & A details - Why is the Miller welder voltage dropping and increasing during weld?
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Why is the Miller welder voltage dropping and increasing during weld?

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Welding .375 thick material with .035 wire. Suggested voltage and wire speed is 19.0 and 310 by Miller. Lately during welding voltage will increase or decrease rapidly causing the welding process to snap crackle and pop. I have been welding for a few years and am aware of the settings and how metal heats and you must adjust as you go, but I have never had a problem like this. Does anyone know why this happens? Voltage will drop sometimes down to 16.0 which is a drastic drop in the middle of welding. 

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  • 0861788249

    0861788249 2017-02-14 09:14:01

    What is the rated current on your machine? Voltage should not drop so drastically during welding, unless you are close to the maximum rated current. Since you say this is a recent problem something else must be to blame. I agree with other posters- it sounds like a grounding issue, or else a loose, dirty or worn terminal somewhere in your machine. Additionally, In my experience, Voltage and WFS suggestions from ANY manufacturer or salesman should be taken with a grain of salt. Forgive me If I sound pedantic here. As a professional welder, it's your responsibility alone to select your tools and use them properly. After all one does not ask a car manufacturer how to drive, one does not ask a scalpel salesman how to do surgery. Only an incompetent surgeon would ever do so. On steels > 3/16" in thickness you really want to be using the spray transfer mode (provided you are welding in the flat or horizontal position.) *Conservative* spray settings for 3/8" would be 550-600 ipm and 30-36 volts. Though, you could easily go higher than that if you want to increase your productivity. The settings you quote are in the middle of "short-circuit transfer" range on the wire feed dial. This is FAR too cold. On 3/8" material you should expect to find lack-of fusion and lack of penetration defects in your welds when using short-circuit transfer. (You're welcome to do some bend tests to prove my point. Irregardless of the process used, good welds should *bend* through the heat-affected zone. They should NOT easily fracture at the root without bending first. If they do, your welds lack fusion and/or penetration. Does your welding machine provide at least 300 amps of output? If not, then it is probably not capable of producing acceptable spray transfer. If this is the case I would advise you to not MIG weld greater than 1/8" thickness for liability reasons. Finally there is a general rule of thumb to use: If you can hold the arc in one spot on the metal without risking burn-through, then your welds are probably too cold. Your welds would probably benefit from increased weld energy. Hope this helps. good luck.

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